Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Sheik Adnan al Jenabi

The dust storm continues and is as thick as I’ve seen it. We are living in a Martian landscape. As a result, our helicopter flight to FOB Endeavor has been postponed until at least midnight. This has given everyone an opportunity to catch up on unfinished business. In my case, this allows me to provide another blog entry.

I want to tell you about our meeting this week with Sheik Adnan, who is head of the largest tribe of Sunni in Iraq, the Jenabi. Being Sunni, the Jenabi held a favorable position under Saddam and have been struggling with the effects of the war, a loss of power, and score-settling with the Shiites holding control. Sheikh Adnan is a powerful and worldly man. He was educated in Britain so he speaks excellent English. At one time, he was also an OPEC oil minister. He is being courted by the current Shiite leadership to become more involved in the government. There’s no doubt in my mind that he has the vision to be the leader of Iraq. Most of the local leaders we have met are rather parochial in their vision. Predictably they are most concerned about their particular local area or group that they lead. However, Sheik Adnan had a much broader vision about the future of the country, one that includes all groups. He told us that the current Government of Iraq inherited the worst government that existed in the world. He said, "We landed on our heads and are struggling to get back on our feet."

We visited him at his expansive house about a 45 minute drive from FOB Kalsu on the main north-south road that connects Baghdad with Basra. The team had met with him prior to my arrival in early June and he asked that the team return at the end of the month to give him our views. Ed Price, our team leader, spoke about the need to repair the irrigation infrastructure (both supply and drainage), the need for programs directed at youth, the need to provide improved seed and broodstock, the need to address plant and animal diseases, and the need to improve the extension service. While Ed talked, the Sheik Adnan made notes and listened intently, all the while fingering his prayer beads. The sheik in turn provided comments on each point in support of our findings and recommendations, putting on his glasses to refer to his notes, then taking them off again as he talked.

We were accompanied by Colonel James, commander of the Fourth Brigade here at FOB Kalsu, Colonel Shuck, James’ executive officer, Howard van Vranken, a diplomat who leads the ePRT (embedded provincial reconstruction team) for Babil, and others. Sheik Adnan’s retinue included sheikhs in traditional dress and other security and support people. At first we met in a giant room and I couldn’t hear a thing, especially with all the fans going. We moved to a slightly less giant room and I was able to hear a few words now and then, but the U.S. colonels and diplomats sitting next to Sheik Adnan were hanging on the his every word and taking notes all the while. Clearly they recognize the power he holds.

I managed to have a brief exchange with the sheik about aquaculture as we were taking our leave. I intended only to drop a passing remark about my interest while I shook his hand to thank him for his hospitality but he held onto my hand and with enthusiasm told me of his involvement in the development of aquaculture in Iraq. I learned that he was one of the pioneers of aquaculture in the country, having worked at the big fish farm near Iskandaria. He said that, next to the highly esteemed fat-tailed sheep, fish farming is the most profitable agricultural activity in the province. He was responsible for introducing some improved carp broodstock into Iraq, personally making several trips to Hungary to arrange for the transport of fish.

Of course, we had another great meal with huge platters of saffron rice and vermicelli, roasted chicken, and large chunks of fat-tailed lamb. On the side were loaves of flatbread and bowls of vegetable soup with tomatoes and eggplant. After lunch there were the obligatory multiple rounds of super-sweet tea (chai) in small glasses and more conversation. Just before leaving the sheik led us to the back garden of his house, which includes a huge coffee pot with a curved spout, the symbol of the Jenabi people. We took the obligatory ceremonial pictures and Ed presented Sheik Adnan with the token Texas A&M cap and t-shirt, which was graciously received. Another savory meal, and another memorable visit with a remarkable man.














Sheik Adnan flanked by Colonel James, commander of FOB Kalsu (L) and his XO Colonel Shuck (R), both of the Fourth Brigade, Third Infantry Division, in front of the symbolic coffee pot.

1 comment:

John said...

Glad to hear that things went a little better when you got to talk with Sheik Adnan el Jenabi. It's also encouraging to hear that not all the qualified people have left Iraq; does the level of local/indigenous expertise seem adequate to you? The discussion about emigration has not been encouraging.

OK -- hang in there. The heat sounds horrible. You deserve a big hand for doing this.